I'm a PM and have a crew doing a roof. Hopefully I can get some answers to these questions, and please don't say "ask your roofer", since I want your answers.
The roof is a 7 pitch and planning to run 3 ft of ice and water along each long side. Shoul>>>
egg said. The problem with using Karnak or any solvent-based asphalt or modified asphalt mastic is it is messy and it can dissolve or blister the underside of comp products if it is applied excessively. Not saying don't use it, just not something that>>>
Sorry I didn't word it well. Egg did; "At the bottom eave (as opposed to the rakes) if you're going to sandwich a drip edge between one narrow and one full-width layer of I&W, why not follow basic roofing technique and put the full on the top so there>>>
TRG, you said, "...if no dripedge,we leave 1" at the rake-never a problem" That is a fact and glad to hear you say it. GAF is trying to cut off the bull's horns (and other things anatomical parts) with a PR blitz that says otherwise. I find GAF>>>
I'm confused. Are you saying take an 8" strip of Ice and Water at "bottom" near fascia, then Drip Edge, than a 3' piece of Ice and Water over the Drip Edge, or are you saying place 3' of Ice and Water, then Drip Edge at bottom, than 6" strip of dri>>>
River Rat Dad wrote: [quote]Do you have codes that dictate anything with respect to ice shield? In MI the code requires ice shield at the eve to a point 24" inside an exterior wall. That often means more than 3 feet here. If an open front porch is>>>
Do you have codes that dictate anything with respect to ice shield? In MI the code requires ice shield at the eve to a point 24" inside an exterior wall. That often means more than 3 feet here. If an open front porch is 6 feet deep for instance you would>>>
"Apply 8" drip OVER the Ice and water at eaves and gable ends."
If you put the 8" strip on first, then the DE, then the 3' piece, there isn't a seam. Rakes?? Sounds OK to me. I don't bother.>>>
My preferance is to apply roof cement to the drip edge as opposed to using a 6" strip. Easier, quicker, and I think more effective as it will adhere the starter shingle. In Fl it has been code for a few yrs now. Cut the valleys. Many roofers try their ha>>>
Here is my original post: I'm a PM and have a crew doing a roof. Hopefully I can get some answers to these questions, and please don't say "ask your roofer", since I want your answers.
The roof is a 7 pitch and planning to run 3 ft of ice and water a>>>
I am not sure about the introduction of Grace Ice & Water Shield nationally, but as far as their Bithuthene product line...bituthene 3000 was a .060 mil product used more as a seperator. In 1974,My specific use for it was to wrap some 12x12 structrual>>>
This is a good one. As you can see, I&S was used and will last forever, or nearly so. This is a fairly new installation. >>>
Egg - Nice drawing.
TRG - Are shingle roofs still being installed by some with staples? What makes 15# felt more breathable than 30# felt?>>>
The valley in the previous post and this picture are of 12" materal. No hemmed edges, no cleats, no caulk, no I&S, no felt under the valleys. Look at the water tracks. Even though we often get 20" of snow in one storm, and tropical rains at times, see h>>>
[quote]by the way...I have been using Ice & water shield (Bithuthene) since 1974, so it's not a new product, comparatively speaking.
Grace brought out their product in 1978 and I thought they were the first in the market. At least they were in m>>>
Well put egg and TRG. I've never bothered with a sealant. I have sandwiched DE with I&S.
Jeff. When I was doing lots of shingles and reps were at the shop weekly for Tamko, GAF>>